A Lost City Carved from Mud

Just outside Trujillo on Peru’s northern coast lies Chan Chan, the largest city of adobe in the Americas and the former capital of the Chimú kingdom. From around AD 850 until its conquest by the Inca in the late 15th century, Chan Chan flourished as a centre of wealth and power, covering 20 square kilometres with a dense core of palatial compounds. The Chimú were master builders who transformed desert clay into labyrinthine walls decorated with reliefs of fish, waves and marine birds—symbols of their intimate relationship with the Pacific Ocean.

History & Urban Design

The city was organised into nine ciudadelas, or walled palaces, each likely built for a ruler and his court. Within these mud‑brick enclosures were ceremonial plazas, administrative rooms, storerooms, burial chambers and reservoirs. Outside the palaces stood workshops for artisans who crafted fine metalwork, textiles and ceramics. Chan Chan’s hydraulic engineering captured seasonal floods and channelled water through canals, demonstrating sophisticated resource management in an arid environment. When the Inca incorporated the Chimú around 1470, they commandeered the city’s wealth but left much of the infrastructure intact. Centuries of El Niño storms and looting, however, have eroded the adobe walls, making preservation urgent.

Highlights to Explore

  • Tschudi Complex: The only palace currently open to visitors features restored walls, courtyards and ceremonial ramps. Admire friezes depicting pelicans, fish and geometric patterns while imagining royal processions passing through.
  • Site Museum: Located near the entrance, the museum displays artefacts recovered from excavations, including copper knives, gold ornaments and intricate textiles. Exhibits explain Chimú social organisation and cosmology.
  • Other Nearby Sites: Combine your visit with the huacas (pyramids) of the Moche culture: Huaca de la Luna and Huaca del Sol feature polychrome murals and reliefs. The seaside town of Huanchaco offers reed boat rides and ceviche eateries.

Visiting Tips & Conservation

Chan Chan’s fragile walls are susceptible to rain and human contact. To protect the site, follow these guidelines:

  • Stay on marked paths and avoid touching the adobe—it crumbles easily.
  • Hire a certified guide for deeper insight and to ensure responsible touring.
  • Wear a hat and sunscreen; the coastal desert sun can be intense despite cool breezes.
  • Bring water but dispose of trash properly—there are few facilities on site.
Conservation Challenges

Chan Chan is on UNESCO’s List of World Heritage in Danger. El Niño events bring torrential rains that erode adobe, while looting and urban encroachment threaten remaining structures. Ongoing conservation projects include protective roofs, drainage systems and community education. Your entrance fee supports these efforts, and your responsible behaviour helps ensure the city’s survival.

Respect Local Communities

Many residents of nearby villages have ancestral ties to Chan Chan. Purchasing handmade crafts, eating at local restaurants and employing local guides contribute to sustainable livelihoods. Avoid buying antiquities or souvenirs of questionable provenance; looted artefacts fuel a black market that undermines cultural heritage.

Practical Details

Chan Chan is easily reached from Trujillo by taxi or public minibus (collectivo) in about 20 minutes. Combine a visit with Huaca de la Luna, Huanchaco beach and the colonial centre of Trujillo for a full cultural day. The site is open daily; arrive early to avoid heat and crowds. Admission includes access to the Tschudi palace and museum. A hat, water and comfortable walking shoes are essential. Guided tours last one to two hours. Remember that flash photography is prohibited inside the palaces to protect the delicate reliefs.

Walking among the ochre walls of Chan Chan offers a glimpse into a civilisation whose brilliance was matched only by its impermanence. The patterns of waves and fish etched into the adobe whisper of a people who harmonised with the sea. By visiting thoughtfully and supporting conservation, you help keep their story alive for future generations.