Arequipa’s Fiery Rocoto Relleno

Rocoto relleno is a signature dish of Arequipa, Peru’s white‑stone city. It features rocoto peppers—spicy red chilies native to the Andes—stuffed with a savory mixture of meat and spices, then baked under a blanket of cheese. According to local legend, the dish was invented by chef Manuel Masías, who made a pact with the devil and was forced to cook a filling meal using only fiery rocotos. While the story entertains, historians note that the recipe arose in Arequipa’s picanterías (traditional spicy restaurants) and was adopted by both Creole and bourgeois households.

Filling & Preparation

To prepare rocoto relleno, cooks carefully remove the seeds and veins to temper the pepper’s heat, then blanch the rocotos in milk or water. The traditional stuffing includes:

  • Ground beef or finely chopped tenderloin
  • Sautéed onions, garlic and ají panca
  • Chopped peanuts, raisins and olives for sweet and salty contrast
  • Fresh parsley, cumin, oregano and huacatay (black mint)
  • Eggs and milk to bind the filling
  • A topping of queso fresco or melting cheese

The stuffed peppers are baked until tender and served alongside a creamy potato gratin known as pastel de papa. Diners must pierce through the molten cheese to reveal a medley of flavors, from nutty to spicy to mildly sweet.

Cultural Context

Rocoto relleno is a test of bravery: locals joke that anyone who finishes one without breaking a sweat earns the respect of Arequipa’s tough picantería cooks. Beyond its heat, the dish represents resilience and resourcefulness; indigenous peppers are married with colonial ingredients like beef and cheese, while the addition of peanuts hints at African influence. The capsaicin in rocoto peppers is believed to have health benefits and a slight anti‑carcinogenic effect. Sampling rocoto relleno in a rustic Arequipa eatery is an essential rite of passage for adventurous palates.

Spice & Tradition

Rocoto peppers are unlike most chilies: they have thick, juicy flesh and tiny hairs on their leaves—hence the species name Capsicum pubescens. They contain a potent heat that can exceed jalapeños on the Scoville scale. To make rocoto relleno palatable, cooks blanch the peppers in milk or water to reduce the capsaicin. The dish is emblematic of Arequipa’s fiery cuisine and is often enjoyed with a cold beer to temper the burn. Some chefs add pork, chicken or even seafood to the filling, while vegetarians use quinoa, beans or vegetables.

Handling Rocotos Safely

Rocoto peppers can irritate skin and eyes. Wear gloves when cutting and deseeding them, and avoid touching your face. Soak the peppers in milk or water after removing seeds to mellow their heat. Have dairy or starches like bread or potatoes on hand to cool your palate if the spice becomes overwhelming.

The dish is typically served with pastel de papa, a layered potato gratin that balances the heat with creamy starch. Eating rocoto relleno in one of Arequipa’s bustling picanterías is a rite of passage for spice lovers.